On Being a Visitor in Brazil(s)

I'm traveling through Brazil with my American friend, Miranda.  It's her first time in Brazil and she doesn't speak any languages that would help her understand Portuguese.  Traveling with her has made me appreciate some of the idiosyncrasies of the language.  It's not until I was forced to translate everything I was reading or hearing that I realized, for example, that a strapless bathing suit is called an "I hope it falls down." 


We have just come from spending four days in Rio Grande do Sul's wine country.  It's a beautiful region of Brazil that I had never been to.  It is different from Bahia, my state in the north, in every way possible: the climate is mild and dry, the people talk funny and are unfailingly courteous, the streets are clean, people are fair-skinned, order prevails, polenta and pasta are common on the menu, people seem embarrassed to accept tips, and free courtesies (like coffee) were common occurrences.

"Ladies! Before you go!  Here are the mushooms that were in your lunch!"

 When we got lost and I asked for directions from some policemen at a gas station, they turned on their lights and showed us the way!

The street behind our guest house.

I was apprehensive to then bring Miranda to Bahia, the land of loud, effusive people; rubbish on the streets; pick-pockets; drumming; Afro-Brazilian culture; spontaneous dancing; and tempers as inconstant as the weather.  Good thing Miranda has Sudan, Malawi, and Papua New Guinea under her belt: to my relief, she fell in love with the historic part of Salvador at the first sight of its windy cobbled streets and its ornate [but gently dilapidating] houses.

Miranda and Carla in the Pelourinho.

Miranda becomes a Brazilian!

I introduced Miranda to her first acaraje, which we ate during a flash downpour.  We then spent a couple of hours in the Mecado Modelo, an indoor craft market catering to visitors.  I usually dread bargaining but doing so on the behalf of someone who does not speak Portuguese allowed for all sorts of subterfuge and theatrics.  It was fun.  I understand now that it's not about the R2.00 that you saved on that last trinket - it's about a sense of pride and accomplishment you feel having battled the vendor to a lower price.  After a good day's shopping, I'm pretty sure I only paid 50% more than I should have.