Last Friday, our deputy country rep surprised me by inviting me to go out for a drink with her husband and her. She is a smart, friendly person but she comes from the Haitian aristocracy, has two kids, and seems very proper: what on earth were we going to talk about? I knew she invited me out because of my limited social life and, grateful, I resolved to be charming and entertaining. Or, if nothing else, not utterly embarrass myself.
They picked me up at around 7:30 and we drove to an old hotel at the top of the hill that survived the earthquake unscathed. It had an air of [modest] former glory. You might not even know it was a hotel when you pull up. The lobby was a small alcove with an unattended desk. Black and white photos of movie stars and politicians I didn't recognize haphazardly adorned the walls. No staff were visible. We made our way through the building and came out onto a huge terrace overlooking all of Port-au-Prince. The view was amazing. This was undoubtedly where the movie stars and politicians sipped their gimlets and chatted with aspiring dictators!
The hotel was a maze of tiled stairways leading to various levels of the terrace. I followed my hosts down a few stairs, wondering what glamorous site awaited me next, to find myself.....in an open air sports bar. A sports bar! Complete with flat screen TVs showing American football, pool tables, loud music, and raucous groups of friends letting loose on a Friday night. I was stunned.
I recovered enough to scrap my plans to behave like a lady, ordered a beer, and proceeded to gape.
At one point, after we had met up with a friend of theirs, my deputy country rep's husband, a mild-mannered be-speckled man, turned to me with ill-suppressed eagerness and asked if I played foosball. We ended up playing several heated rounds with all the trimmings: bravado, dramatic wins, miraculous recoveries, and high fives. Then our food arrived: sushi! Sushi, I was told with a wink and, I'm sure, to the surprise of most Haitians, was invented by Haitians! A few of the rolls we ordered came wrapped not in seaweed, but in fried banana. The resulting sweetness was a lovely compliment to spicy tuna and salty prawn.
I had such effortless fun that I forgot where I was entirely. It was only when my hosts wistfully spoke of the days when it was possible to [safely] go dancing at a club that the illusion of normalcy wavered for a minute.
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